And a month later...Maui

How do you spell spoiled rotten? F-O-U-R S-E-A-S-O-N-S

After our mediocre stay at the Hyatt on Kauai, I was really looking forward to our stay at the Four Seasons. We had booked it purposely at the end because I knew I wanted to end the honeymoon on a high note.  On a previous visit to Maui, I had spent a wonderful afternoon at the beach in front of the Four Seasons (Wailea Beach) and had lunch at the hotel, and it was during that visit that I made a note to myself to try to come back when I won the lottery.

From the second you drive up to the hotel, you are treated like Master of the Universe. Not just lei-ed, but Chris even gotten a Man Lei (leaves not flowers). We had called the Concierge from Kauai to make reservations at restaurant I wanted to try, so when we checked in, our itinerary for the week was printed out. I was stoked. So we had a partial ocean view and boy do they mean partial, like standing outside on your tip toes partial view. But the room was so friggin fantastic that I just didn't care about the view. 600 square feet, 200 of it was the bathroom alone. We were just awed by this room, so of course when we saw the incredible welcome gift, we were giddy like little schoolgirls. A nice bottle of champagne and a plate of chocolate fondue with strawberries perfectly stacked and 4 choices of sprinkles - coconut, pistachio, toffee bits, fancy sugar. So right away, we popped open the champagne, lit the fondue pot to heat the chocolate and sat on the lanai as the sun set. After only 2 hours there, the experienced topped what we had experienced at the Hyatt (not to constantly bash the Hyatt but it is hard to spend that kind of money and not get first class treatment).

The next five days were spent snorkeling, reading and eating.  I think I went through 3 books in 5 days, The Kite Runner being one that no one ought to miss, an amazing book.  We also went to 5 restaurants, my reviews follow.  By the way, all these places need reservations...

Sarento's On the Beach
This place had been recommended to me by my boss and a foodie attorney at work, so we had to try it.  At first I was skeptical, I tend to be way pickier than most people and recommendations from people who are easy going often fall flat.  Also, it is part of the Best Western Maui Oceanfront Inn, which is usually not a good sign for a restaurant.  But I had read that it was part of the same restaurant group that owns Nick's Fish Market at the Fairmont Kea Lani, which, although I have never been to, I always hear great things about.  It turns out my fears were unfounded, as we were very happy with our entire dining experience, from the perfect service to the good, and HUGE portions of food.  Located between Wailea and Kihei, Sarento's is a beachside restaurant (like 20 yards from the surf), basically a covered porch with full west facing sunset photo opportunities.  If you do go here, this is one to get a sunset reservation at for sure.  They serve mostly traditional Italian food, with some twists - I had an amazing Gazpacho with Grilled and Chilled Shrimp and Avocado Butter ($11.95), followed by schnitzel over arugula salad (they call it Cotolette Capricciosa - Herb Coated Veal "Milanese Style", White Truffle Oil Vinaigrette ($30.95) but we know it's schnitzel.  It was pretty good but a little too breaded for my taste).  Chris got a Caesar because he always has to get a Caesar ($9.95) and the Spaghetti and Filet Mignon Meatballs ($29.95 and way, way good but enough food for 4, a waste really because we couldn't take it to-go).  Now that I see these prices I think "Holy crap!" but everything at restaurants in Hawaii is expensive, so you sort of have to give up worrying about it and make sure half your budget is for food (unless you are in a condo and can cook at home).  Sarento's also has an exceptional wine list, especially compared to what most restaurants in the Islands have, but the prices are shocking, reminding you that, yes, everything comes here from the Mainland and beyond, so give us your money.  Boy do we save money by not buying wine right now.  Reservations highly recommended.

Mama's Fish House
I know that this place is exceptional but I felt like such crap the night we were there that I just really could not enjoy it.  I managed to get a nasty sunburn under an umbrella, I have no idea how.  The best we can figure is reflection from the sand, because I was not out in the sun for more than a couple of minutes, but when I was under that umbrella my leg felt like burning.  Sure enough it was.  Note: wear sunscreen even when under an umbrella.  So I was in extreme pain, and just could not relax for dinner.  Everyone else seemed to be having a great time, so I would highly recommend it! Mama's is generally know as the best food in Maui.  And the atmosphere of the restaurant is personal and friendly and romantic, it is right on the beach but on the other side of the island so, while you will see the colors of sunset, you are on the wrong side of the island to see the actual setting of the sun.  For some reason dining during the setting sun is very important in Hawaii.  I suck for not enjoying it.  Food was very good, order any fish special, as were the cocktails (and juice, WOOHOO!) just do it sunburn free.  Reservations highly recommended.

Spago at the Four Seasons
Spago is Spago, this is no exception, but it was the most mediocre meal out we had in Maui.  The service was impersonal and scattered, and we felt a bit like everyone was new.  The food was good, but unforgettable, I had a salad I think.  The sunset was great, but didn't help that this restaurant seems to rely on it's name to attract people, because it sure isn't using its food or service.

Pacific'O
I spent a lovely afternoon here last year by myself, and so I told Chris we had to go back.  Just south of downtown Lahaina, it is right on the beach with a great patio that overlooks the surf school lessons.  Sadly, my great meal was not to be repeated.  Each of the dishes we had just missed the mark.  I basically got what I had had the time before and none were great this go around (KALUA QUESADILLA - Imu-style shredded pork, roasted peppers with pepper-jack cheese with Maui onion salsa and avocado puree. $9.00, SHRIMP WON TONS - Prawn and basil won tons served with a spicy sweet & sour sauce and Hawaiian salsa. $12.00), but you can't win em all.  The view is unbeatable and the wine-by-the-glass list is the best we saw in Hawaii, but expect hit-or-miss food.  The service was at times rude, and always scattered.  Maybe dinner is more together.

Pacific Grill
We ended up eating here for the breakfast buffet everyday and for dinner once and dessert once.  This place has a Caesar salad that is now in the Top 5 of best Caesars we have had.  For some reason, a place with a great salad gets top points from me.  They also had considerate and quiet service, they were prompt and professional but let you enjoy your meal. Often hotel restaurants are nothing special, but this place really impressed us.  And we put someone's kid through college by dining there everyday.

Things that we recommend not missing on Maui:

1.  The Olivine Pools - Not unlike the Queen's Bath on Kauai, a seaside, clear pool, constantly  refreshed by the churning ocean complete with fish and warm water.  In a Mars-like setting on the north-eastern coast, it is a bit of a hike down to the pool, which is great because as sad as it is, a 10 minute hike deters A LOT of people.  There were about 5 other people there when we were.  Bring your snorkel.

2.  The Pipiwai Trail - This is a hike on the South end of the island (south-west) past Hana and in the shadow of Haleakala.  Get there early to avoid the crowds.  It is a medium hike, where you go from brush, up through guava groves and cows, under huge trees, to the top of a waterfall, over bridges, through bamboo forests, across the river, to end at the bottom of a different waterfall.  A totally kick-ass way to spend a few hours.  Bring water, a snack and good bug stuff.  From here the road west (not back through Hana) is drivable contrary to what you have heard, and shows you the dry, volcanic side of the island that you never hear about.  A great view of Haleakala from here.  Plus, there are cows.

3.  Snorkeling the Aquarium - A challenging hike over sharp lava, following a barely marked trail, leads you to calm pools full of thousands of fish.  We had this place alone for most of the morning.  This is south of Wailea, in the Ahihi Marine Reserve.  Go very early for a chance to see dolphins.  We saw none.

Well, I can't imagine that you want to read more about our honeymoon.  This is a food blog afterall!

Comments

[santos.]

sounds like a fabulous time! if i ever win the lottery i'd stay at the four seasons, too.

the leaves in chris's lei are maile (my-leh) leaves, which were traditionally used to celebrate marriages/weddings, but now are used in many significant celebrations. when i graduated from university, i had a twelve foot triple strand one--i felt like an environmentally friendly cabaret act :)

[MM]

Wow! You look gorgeous at your wedding. Everything looks and sounds fabulous. Congratulations!

[laura @ cucina testa rossa]

oh i am soooooooooooooooooooooooo jealous! i would kill for some hot weather and a beach right about now!